The Loire Valley; Vacationland for the Rich and Mighty

 

We could have spent more time in Provence; there was certainly lots more to see and do. However, it was time to move on. So we left the scent of lavender and sun-kissed fields and headed North to the Loire Valley. When we think of the Loire Valley, we think of sumptuous châteaux and there is no shortage of them. Chenonceau is a particularly picturesque castle spanning the Cher River. It is known as the "Ladies' Château" since much of its history is tied to the women connected with it.

The châteaux of the Loire valley provide a lesson in French history. King Francis I seized the château as settlement for an unpaid debt. Upon his death, his son, Henry II gave it, not to his queen, Catherine de Medici, but to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. It was Diane who commissioned the construction of the arched bridge to connect both banks of the river.

Henry II died as the result of a jousting accident. It seems that the lance of his jousting opponent pierced his head gear and he suffered a massive wound and died 11 days later. After his death, Catherine de Medici ousted Diane and made the castle her favorite residence. During WWI the château was used as a military hospital. During WWII it was the point of entry to Free France from Occupied France. The family that owned the castle smuggled many people from Nazi Occupied France to Free France. Free France wasn't really free since it was under control of Pétain's Vichy government. Eventually, the structure was occupied by the Germans. 

We visited Chambord, the largest of all the châteaux. It was built for Francis I as a hunting lodge. There are 200 some odd chimneys for 365 fireplaces.

Although the exact identity of the architect is unknown the influence of Leonardo da Vinci is apparent throughout the castle and especially in the famous double helix staircase. It’s possible for two people to use the staircase at the same time and never meet each other. Francis I admired the work of da Vinci and invited him to the French court as “premier painter, architect and engineer of the king.” One of the things we noted about Chambord was how sparsely appointed it was. This was partly due to the losses brought by the passing of time. However, the sparseness was very much in keeping with the history of the château. Since the building was impractical as a full-time dwelling, it was sparsely furnished and the king and his court, as many as 2000 people, would bring the necessary furnishing for a hunting trip. Still the rooms were lavish.  Ornamentation is found throughout, even to the downspouts.

A nightly “son et lumière” show tells the history of the castle with sound and light.

Provence Beyond Arles, Part Two

 A bit further from Arles is the Verdon Gorge, a limestone canyon 15 miles long carved into the countryside by the Verdon River. Its sheer walls plunge a half a mile from the rim to the river. A local there told us that every year numerous people stand on the rim and get vertigo and fall to their deaths. 

 

There are several lakes in the canyon where you can rent various kinds of boats. When I took pictures of sailboats there, I never dreamt that someday I'd own a sailboat.

Getting there takes you through Aix-en-Provence, a picturesque town with fountains and beautiful architecture. Fountains anchor the fashionable Cours Marabeau, a tree lined boulevard. Here you can rest at a comfortable café and look at the magnificent façades, courtyards and fanciful entryways of historic mansions.

  

West of Arles is a city that has ties to people all over the world, Nîmes. “What kind of ties?” you ask. Linguistic ties. Weavers in Nîmes produced a sturdy twill fabric known as “serge de Nîmes,” denim, in other words. Blue jeans the world over are made from denim. Nîmes, nestled in the southern part of France, is a city steeped in historical richness. Called Nenmausus by the Romans, it was a regional capitol and home to 50,000 to 60,000 people.

Like so many Roman cities, Nîmes had a huge Amphitheatre that could seat24,000 spectators who came to watch gladiators fight each other and ferocious animals. The ancient ways continue during the Feria de Nîmes when toreadors battle with bulls. 50,000 people consume a great deal of water and Nîmes got its water from a spring 30 miles away. 8 million gallons of water every day flowed over the Pont du Gard. This 3 level bridge was built in the first century and in addition to carrying water it also provided a means to cross the Gard River. At 160 feet tall, it is the tallest of Roman aqueduct/bridges.

Provence is a beautiful part of France and we were so happy to experience it on our first trip outside of Paris.

 

Provence Beyond Arles, Part One

 

The countryside surrounding Arles offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Small villages perch atop the hillsides, each echoing stories of times past through their narrow cobblestone streets. 

Farmsteads nestle in verdant valleys, surrounded by the silvery arms of olive groves and terraced vineyards, promising a bounty of wine.

Close to Arles lies the quaint commune of Les Baux-de-Provence. While renowned for its beauty, the main attraction is the medieval fortress perched high on a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles. 

Covering over 12 acres, the castle offers a spectacular view. The village lends its name to bauxite, an aluminum ore discovered nearby.

The region is rich in Roman ruins, often glimpsed from the countryside roads. Glanum is a notable site, inhabited since 6th or 7th century BCE. Originally a Celtic shrine, it later became a Roman settlement boasting well-preserved buildings with mosaic-adorned floors.

Provencal cuisine delights with aromatic dishes cooked in olive oil, featuring onions, garlic, native herbs, tomatoes, saffron, and even dried orange peel. One iconic dish, Bouillabaisse, originated in Marseille, where fishermen created a flavorful fish soup. A visit to Marseille also led us to the bustling garlic market, where vendors sell their wares from stalls or the backs of their vehicles.

From 1309 to 1376, Avignon served as the seat of the papacy, a result of conflicts between Philip IV of France and the papacy. The period saw seven successive popes in Avignon, leaving a rich historical legacy. Today, Avignon is famed for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine and immortalized in the French children's song "Sur le Pont d'Avignon".

Built between 1177 and 1185, the Saint-Bénezet Bridge, known as “Pont d'Avignon”, originally consisted of 22 arches connecting Avignon Extensive damge from war and flooding of the Rhône mean that only 4 arches remain today. 

In the Land of Oc

We left Carcassonne and the Pyrénées and headed East to the Camargue and Provence. We landed in Arles which became our pied à terre for the next couple of weeks. The Romans called the city "Arelate" from the Gaulish name which translates to "By the marsh," referring to the marshlands of the Camargue which surround the city. Arles, of course, is where Van Gogh spent a lot of time at the end of his life. His time there is considered the most prolific of his life. During 12 months he produced an incredible 187 paintings. Some of his most famous paintings were done there; “Starry Night”, “Café Terrace”, “The Bridge in Arles”. One canvas featured the Coliseum.

When we were there, the coliseum was not as crowded as when Van Gogh painted it. 

During Roman times, the coliseum could seat 20,000 people. During the middle ages, it was transformed into a fortress for protection and people built houses and a chapel there. 

The coliseum is still used for concerts and bull fighting-yes, bullfighting is not limited to Spain.

Public parks are an important part of every French city. Van Gogh painted the entrance to the public park in Arles. 

It's pretty much the same today.

Arles was an important city in the Roman empire. Strategically located on the southern Rhône it became an important economic, political and cultural center. The 4^th century poet Ausonius called it “The Rome of the Gauls.”  The city is the site of numerous Roman structures.

In addition to the coliseum, Arles boasted a 10,000 seat amphitheater. Sadly, only two pillars remain standing from this structure, Les Deux Veuves (The Two Widows).

When you stroll through European towns, one delightful feature that catches your eye is the abundance of window boxes. These charming containers grace the facades of buildings, adding color, texture, and vibrancy to the urban landscape.

 

                                                

While supermarkets and convenience stores have become widespread in urban areas, there is still demand for specialized and high-quality products that are often found in butcher shops and produce markets. Consumers may prefer the personalized service, expertise, and freshness that these establishments can provide. Additionally, some people prioritize supporting local farmers and businesses, which can be facilitated through these smaller, more specialized shops. In France, where cuisine occupies a central place in the culture, these small shops offer higher quality goods.

Place de la Republique in the center of town is dominated by an obelisk from the 4th century. It was erected by the emperor Constantine II as part of the Roman circus. After the circus fell into disuse, the obelisk toppled in the 6th century and was forgotten. It was rediscovered in the 14th century and re-erected on top of a pedestal on March 26, 1676. A fountain was added to the pedestal in the 19th century.

We Become Tourists

 After several short trips and stopovers in Paris, we decided to do the city right and spent a couple of weeks there. It was a lazy trip in late Spring. On a previous trip we had discovered a new place to stay, Hotel Floridor. It’s located near Place Denfert Rochereau in the neighborhood where we had stayed previously. By this time, we had already stayed at the Floridor several times and became regular customers there. On one trip to Paris, I called from the airport to secure a room and was told that no rooms were available. I asked, “Même pour un client assidu?” (Even for a regular patron?). I was flattered that they found a room for us. The hotel is right across the street from the catacombs but for some reason we never visited the catacombs.

 

We spent a lot of time just wandering streets in various parts of Paris. We watched street artists in Montmartre as they sketched Sacré Coeur and picturesque street scenes.

 

Blvd Montparnasse is in the neighborhood of the Floridor, just one Métro stop away. The street is home to many bistros and brasseries made famous by the “Lost Generation” of American expats like Fitzgerld and Hemingway. 

La Coupole is one we enjoyed.. The restaurant is divided into two ections separated by a short divider wall. The tables in one half are adorned with linen tablecloths while the tables in the other half are covered with paper and both sides boast art deco straight out of the 1920s The menu and prices are the same in both sides of the restaurant. The food is excellent and people often go there to be seen. I had steack tartare there for the first time.

 

Wandering the streets of Paris is always interesting. The campy shops on Île de la Cité offer some of the most colorful products. 

                Fresh flowers are important to Parisiennes and flower markets are easy to find.

There's hardly a street in Paris that doesn't have at least one sidewalk café where you can rest your legs and sip a refreshing brew and maybe write a few postcards to your jealous friends back home.

Even if you’ve been to Paris many times, Notre Dame cathedral is a must do. Back in the 1970s you could actually visit without throngs of other tourists crowding the scene.

While the roof line of the cathedral has rows of marching saints, gargoyles festoon the eaves and gables. They are there to shed rainwater and to remind believers of the perils of sin. It was also believed that they would serve to discourage visits from Satan and bad spirits.

I had to take Claudia to the Palais de Chaillot to see the magnificent fountains.   

 

A short walk over the Pont St Michel from Île de la Cité brings you to Blvd St Michel and the Latin Quarter, home to riverside book venders, tony shops and restaurants galore where a prix fixe lunch is affordable to the most frugal tourist. It’s a busy part of Paris day and night.